One of the great things about living in New Hampshire is its proximity to foreign lands–Canada, a maximum four hours away, readily available to anyone who has a passport. Despite the fact that I’ve lived up here for a year and a half, I had yet to take the time to go up there and pay our northern neighbors a visit. Last week, I noted to Lasse that I had two days off in a row, wouldn’t it be fun to go on an impromtu road trip?
“Yeah! We can finally go to Vermont,” he said enthusiastically.
Vermont? There wasn’t anything in Vermont worth seeing, I thought. “How about Canada? We can drive through Vermont to Canada. Besides, then we can find out if their coke has high fructose corn syrup in it or not.” Avoiding high fructose corn syrup has become a bit of an obsession with my husband. He absolutely loathes the fact that you find it in damn near everything in the US. It’s in the soda. It’s in the ketchup, it’s in the candy, all because of our subsidies to the corn industry and our tariffs on “foreign sugar”.
Lasse hesitated. “Isn’t that 8 hours away?”
“To Toronto, maybe, but Montreal is only like 4 or 5 hours away, depending.”
That settled it, we’d go to Montreal. We printed out directions from mapquest, loaded up our Vermont/New Hampshire/Maine map (which conveniently has the southern part of Canada on it as well) and left last Saturday, around 8am.
Our first pit stop was in Hillsborough, NH, to visit German John’s Bakery, the only place in New Hampshire where it’s possible to get German bread. We aimed to arrive there around 9:30
when it opened, buy a selection of bread, cheese and wurst to serve as provisions on our trip. We got there at 9 and walked around the town a bit, taking pictures by the Coontoocook River, which was bursting at its seems from snow run off and rain.
When the bakery opened, we learned to our dismay that there wouldn’t be any bread available until 11:00, at least, due to the amount of bread the baker was baking. Just so you know, a REAL German bakery would have started baking at 1am, and there would have been a ton of fresh bread available at 6:30 in the morning. There were some Brötchen available, however, and we bought one of each kind, much to their surprise. It made 7 in all. True to form, I didn’t take pictures of the bakery or the Brötchen. Sigh. I suck when it comes to picture taking.
We continued our journey after this and headed straight for Vermont. Vermont is about what you would expect. That is, it’s a lot like New Hampshire, except it’s more sparsely populated and, suprisingly enough, has fewer trees. There were places where the land was so clear I felt like I could have been back in Kansas. You could see for miles in some place: such clear land! The towns we passed through were small collections of buildings, surrounding a central church, nestled among the Green Mountains, giving Lasse and me flashbacks to southern Germany and Austria. It had that exact same flair to it.

We thought about stopping in Montpelier, being that it’s the capitol, but upon seeing the typical collection of buildings and nothing really of note, kept going. Burlington seems to be THE major urban center in Vermont, and we drove through there, too, and it was the only place we saw that actually had a city feeling to it and even then it was more like a large town.
From there we went straight up north to St. Albans, where we pulled off the Interstate and proceeded to drive around. What were we looking for in such a small town a stone’s throw away from Canada? Why, the Vermont Service Center, of couse. I really wanted to see the place where our I-130 had sat for so long and where all of this stuff we have to do in the future (filing for removal of conditions, filing for citizenship, etc) will take place. Alas, we couldn’t find it. I rather expected to see signs saying “Vermont Service Center,” this way! But nothing. I probably should have looked up the address before hand.
We did, however, find memorials to the great Civil War Battle of St. Albans, in which Confederate Soldiers snuck over the border and robbed a bank. I’d show you a picture of it, but we never actually stopped driving and my husband was in charge of the camera, so most good shots we could have had we missed due to the fact the shots were standing still and we were going at 35 miles an hour (the pictures we took from the interstate we were going 65, so they’re even worse).
The Canadian border was about 12 miles away at that point and we gave up our search and got back on the Interstate, finally seeing signs that ticked off the miles to the Canadian border. Then finally, the border station. Lasse was supposed to have taken pictures of it, but I can’t find any and now wonder if he really didn’t. I wanted pictures because 1) I’ve never crossed a land border before and 2) Why the hell not? He didn’t want to take pictures because 1) They usually don’t like people taking pictures of such things and 2) He’s afraid of getting in trouble. As it stands, there were no signs prohibiting picture taking and I see no way they could have found out if people took pictures or not.
The border itself was fairly deserted. I had expected more people crossing, but I guess 1pm on a Saturday isn’t prime border crossing time. There was one car in front of us and a few behind. That was it. We pulled up to the place where we had to stop and waited to be signaled forward. We held our passports at the ready and were finally waved forward by the Canadian in the box.
I remember reading an article in National Geographic when I was a kid about the Canadian-American Border being the longest undefended border in the world and how it was a border of friendship, etc. and how people regularly went from one side to another, no problems, happy, happy, love, hippies, etc. My own family shares in that history. My maternal grandmother lived on a farm in Alberta, but was American because she was born on that side of the border and later moved to California. My maternal great-grandmother, however, was Canadian, though she, too, spent the later years of her life in the US.
While all of this about the Canadian-American border may have been true at one point in time, it most certainly isn’t now. Now you need passports to get from one side to the other–a birth certificate or driver’s license isn’t enough. Furthermore, the Canadians themselves have turned into hard-asses.
We handed our passports to him through the window and waited. “Where are you headed?” “Montreal.” “Purpose of trip?” “To see Canada.” He looked at us, perhaps wearily. “How long are you staying?” “Just today.” Another look. “Where are you coming from?” “New Hampshire.” Pause. “You drove ALL the way from New Hampshire to go to Canada for a DAY?” I stared at him, wondering if I should point out that New Hampshire is RIGHT. OVER. THERE. And that I knew a ton of people who went to Canada for a day. Why not? It’s RIGHT. THERE. North of us, looking rather inviting as a foreign country and all. “Well, yeah, we wanted to visit Canada and I had today off, so we figured why not?”
That turned his attention to my job. “What do you do?” “I work retail.” He then turned his attention to my husband. “What’s your status in the US?” “Immigrant.” The dude in the box frowned. I sighed. “Permanent resident. Honey, give him your card.” I should note to any new immigrants to the US that leaving the US before you get your Green Card would be a Bad Idea. Despite the fact the visa was in his passport, Dumb-Dumb the Border Guard didn’t bother looking for it. He wanted to see the Actual Green Card. We handed it over, and the questions continued. “How do you know each other.” We answered at once, “We’re married.” No, he’s actually my pimp, and we’re crossing into Canada so as to internationalize our prostitution ring. The fact that our surnames are the same on our passports is just a fancy trick to distract you. Ha ha!
“What do you plan on doing in Canada?” “I don’t know; sight seeing, shopping?” “Do you plan on leaving anything behind in Canada?” I had planned to empty our trash bag there before we headed home, but after that, decided maybe I’d take it all back with us. “No…” “Is this your car?” “Of course.” He then wanted to see what routes we would be taking to Montreal and we had to dig out our mapquest directions, which I proceeded to read allowed in a confused fashion. A few more moments of silence and then he handed our passports and Green Card back to us and sent us on our way. We were both of us a bit disillusioned. The only other time I’d had such difficulty getting across a border was in Iceland and even that experience wasn’t nearly as bad as this one. Lasse had never had such an experience. Usually people see a Finnish passport and just let him through. Everyone knows Finns are harmless. But apparently a Finn crossing over to Canada from the US with an American driving the car makes him a threat to national security. As an American, I’m beginning to get the feeling I should expect more of the same treatment no matter where I go abroad.
We then drove off into Canada, and everything turned to French. The first few signs were in French and English, the first one told us that radar detectors were prohibited and the second that the speed limit was posted in Kilometers, not miles, and the speed limit was 90km, about 45mi. After that, it was French and nothing but French.
I know that Quebec is the French speaking province of Canada, but I had no idea they took it so far. In Finland, the areas with Swedish speaking populations still have signs with both languages–they do censuses to see how many Swedish-speakers there are compared to Finnish-speakers and then post the signs accordingly. If there are more Swedish-speakers, Swedish goes first and Finnish second. If there are more Finnish-speakers, the opposite occurs. It’s all an exercise in futility though as Swedish speakers still speak both languages.
Not so in Quebec. Their independence movement is a lot stronger and, since visiting, I’m quite surprised they’re still part of Canada. Each of the towns we drove through was named after a St. Somebody with a French Name and I found driving in French so intimidating that the first major town we came upon (which turned out to be St. Luc, not Ibardsville–or whatever–as I had thought), we pulled off and went int search of a bathroom, bank, and shopping center. Bank was the easiest to find and I took out $40C and then we went to a Burger King where Lasse ordered a burger. In English. Afterwards, he expressed his amazement at her English. “It was so POOR! I expected there to be an accent, but she couldn’t even find the right words to speak English! It sounded horrible! I thought they would be more bilingual than that!”
Then we drove around the town some more, noting that in Quebec, traffic lights are horizontal, not vertical. I would show you a picture, but in our nervousness of driving in Canadian street traffic, we forgot to take a single one. basically the lights go like this:
red-yellow-green-yellow-green.
It’s bizarre and I was always glad not to be in the front of a traffic queue; I would have had no idea how to proceed.
We found a grocery store a little while later and, yes, it was entirely in French. Avacados, I should mention, are extremely cheap in Canada: $1.99 for a bag of 5. They’re that much for a single one in New Hampshire. Strawberries are also rather cheap. I was tempted to buy some, but decided not to, which turned out to be a good thing: you have to declare all fruits and vegetables you are bringing over to the US at the border. Instead, we wandered around, looking for the soda aisle.
Finding out if Canadian coke has high fructose corn syrup in it is a bit of a challenge. They don’t label their bottles as having sugar or high fructose corn syrup in them. Instead, they merely put glucose/fructose on the bottle, which basically means it could be one or the other and they’re going to lable it vaguely to cover their asses, just in case. We also found some swiss cake rolls (an off brand, not Little Debbie) made with sugar, some candy and to our amazement, ketchup made with real sugar! Who would have thought? It’s damn near impossible to find in the US–even in “natural” food stores they tend to use high fructose corn syrup.
At first, we bought only small bottle of coke, to try. Lasse opened the bottle slowly in the car and the smell of coke filled the air. He laughed, “I think it’s sugar–I can smell the sugar!” He tasted it, slowly. “I think it’s sugar–it’s hard to tell, drinking it from a bottle, I’d have to pour it into a cup to be sure.”
“Give me a sip.” Since getting pregnant, I haven’t had any soda at all–it tastes cloyingly sweet to me and I always end up thinking how much better water would taste and drinking that instead. But I took the coke and drank some. It fizzled nicely on my tongue and left no horrid after taste as high fructose corn syrup would. “It’s sugar. Want to get more?”
Lasse hesitated. “I don’t know.”
“Oh, come on, it’s a lot cheaper here than getting Mexican Coke in New Hampshire. Besides, we drove all this way!”
“Alright, Alright, we’ll get a few more bottles.”
In the end, we bought 3 1.5L bottles of Coke and realized that they all have a 5 cent deposit on them. “We’ll have to bring them back next time we came,” I teased Lasse.
“Oh, yeah, because drivivng 8 hours to return 3 bottles will definitely save the environment,” he complained. Our lack of a deposit is one of the things Lasse really likes about New Hampshire.
After that, I pulled into a gas station and bought about 8 or 9 liters of gas at $1.27C. It wasn’t much, but it would be enough to get us back to New Hampshire, I hoped and I wasn’t entirely sure how gas prices would be in Quebec compared to NH. I think I paid about $4 a gallon, roughly.
After that, we debated continuing on to Montreal, but noted that Montreal drivers were crazy and that it was already 3pm. We decided to head back to the US.
Going into the US was an interesting experience, too. Creepier than the Canadian one, as soon as we pulled up to the border, they took a picture of our car. “They took a picture of us!” I cried. “I know!” Lasse answered. How freaky is that? If your paranoid, or trying to live off grid, don’t go to Canada. That border is creepy.
The border guard was decked out in a Homeland Security uniform and gave me Orwellian chills. He himself was friendly, in marked contrast to his Canadian counterpart. He asked where we were from, I said New Hampshire. He asked where we were headed, I said back to New Hamsphire. He asked what the purpose of our trip was. About this time, 5 border guards exited the booth and stood there buy the car. We stared at the them. What the heck? From the conversation we heard, they were Border Guards in Training. I immediately began to worry we would be used as a training exercise and they would search our car. Ugh, talk about aggravating. They didn’t, though, and headed off elsewhere to continue their training while I contemplated how low you have to sink to want to be a border guard for a living, especially working for the Department of Homeland Security.
I answered the border guard’s question, explaining to him that we wanted to see Canada and find out if they had high fructose corn syrup in their soda or not. “Do they?” He seemed to find this quest amusing. “No, at least it doesn’t seem like they do.” I explained the problem with the labeling. He asked us if we brought anything else back. “Just other stuff without high fructose corn syrup.” “Any alcohol?” Alcohol? Who cares about Alcohol? “No.” “What’s in those bags?” I frowned, and turned to look in the back seat, where two brown paper bags were. “Oh, that’s bread we brought from home for the trip.” The German bread, to be precise. He then turned his attention to my husband. “Where are you from?” “New Hampshire,” Lasse replied. Obviously, this answer wasn’t good enough, and we handed over the Green Card. “That’s what I was looking for,” the guard said with a smile and ran the Green Card through the reader thingy. After determining that Lasse was not an illegal immigrant and was no being smuggled over the border, he let us go and we were on our way back to NH.
While the trip was fun on the whole, it made me feel a bit depressed. How more to feel caged in than living near a border and trying to see the other side? Both sides like to make it feel like the human desire to wander is some sort of crime and the general attitude I get is “how dare you want to leave? Aren’t there enough places for you to visit in your own country?” I don’t remember this attitude before September 11, but then again, my travels were limited before then. But now they’re building the border fence near Mexico and apparently one Senator has suggested building a similar border along the Canadian one. What are we so afraid of that we have to fence ourselves in from the rest of the world?